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Full report: http://autoexpert.com.au/buying-a-car/top-20-ways-to-beat-a-car-dealer The Top 20 ways to beat a car dealer Buying a new car from a car dealership is awful. Getting that new car should be a pleasant experience, but it’s not. The deck is stacked against you, and your opponent (the car salesman) is match fit. That car salesman is not on your side. The dealership is not ‘helping you’. The dealership's mission is to extract your cash - as much of it as possible. Car salesmen have a playbook full of tricks and traps. They do it every day. This video - and these 20 tips for beating the dealer - is the cure. 1. Shop at the end of the month 2. Buy a car in stock 3. Pitch a low offer 4. Abrogate the limit 5. Walk away 6. Sell your used car & get independent finance 7. The dealership is a vending machine 8. Any time a car dealer talks, it’s probably bullshit 9. Time pressure is definitely bullshit 10. There’s plenty of profit in the deal 11. Normal conversational rules and etiquette don’t apply 12. Don’t answer questions - ask them 13. Don’t cave in to emotional pressure 14. Dealer delivery is a scam 15. Don’t queue up 16. Scare tactics (protection) 17. Accessories 18. Extended warranties 19. Branded insurance 20. Use a broker - that’s where I come in. My strong advice is: use all of these tips at the dealership. Negotiate the best deal you can on your next new car. Don’t pay a deposit. Don’t sign a contract. Don’t succumb to any of the car dealer's BS about the deal evaporating when you walk out the door (it won’t). Then contact me online at AutoExpert.com.au - I’ll get my brokerage onto this purchase, and they’ll use their inside knowledge and bulk-buying power to cut even more cash out of the car you want. There’s no obligation. It’s easy, quick and painless, and it’s not a scam. We’re currently saving new car buyers a total of more than $100,000 off the recommended drive-away price of new cars - every month. You can save too.
Will high-octane fuel make your car go better? Will premium petrol make your car run more economically? More smoothly? Cleaner? Or any combination of those things? No. Premium petrol claims are almost entirely bullshit, and the bits that aren’t bullshit are almost entirely over-blown marketing hyperbole. If you need high-octane gas, you need it. If you don’t, it’s just a waste of money. The brand names of petrol (gasoline) are almost entirely bullshit, too. In Australia, most of the petrol is actually imported from mega-refineries in Singapore in humungous ships, and the branding of that petrol is an entirely artificial exercise that takes place only at the point of sale. Almost everything fuel companies tell you about their brand of gasoline is either grossly overstated, or else outright bullshit. Especially advertisements promoting the purported benefits of premium petrol to most drivers, who really don’t need it. Brand A gasoline is just as good as brand B gasoline because it’s the same gasoline. It came here in the same big tank, on the same big ship. The number is really all that matters - the octane rating. Here in Australia we have 91-, 95- and 98-octane gasoline, and other countries are different … marginally. We also have e10, which is up to 10 per cent ethanol, and because the ethanol’s an octane booster, it’s up to about 94 octane. It’s not always 10 per cent, but it’s never more than that. People think it’s the high octane fuel that delivers the performance, but it’s really the engine’s compression delivering that performance. The high octane fuel just tolerates the compression, allowing the engine to do its thermodynamic voodoo. There’s two main kinds of octane ratings, and they’ve had several children out of wedlock. Of course. After all, why use only one octane rating, when 15 would do? Research octane number, or RON, and motor octane number, MON, are the Adam and Eve of knock-resistance numbers. They’re just different test protocols - different revs, pre-heated fuel in MON, and variable ignition timing, too - to stress the mixture even more. And that means a RON rating is likely to be 10-12 points above a MON rating - for the same knock resistance. Here in Australia, and across the ditch in New Zealand, as well as in most of Europe, they use RON, but in the United States, Canada and Brazil, they use an average of RON and MON, called the ‘anti-knock index’, or AKI. So, AKI = (RON + MON)/2. Sometimes it’s also called the PON, or ‘posted octane number’. The biggest issue for drivers is: Which fuel you should put in your car? And the answer is: The minimum octane rating recommended by the manufacturer. Obviously this is because if you tip an octane rating less than that which the engine is designed for, it’ll knock. Too much squeeze. And then the engine will get damaged, compose a letter to its solicitors, habeus the crap out of your corpus, and then hand you a bill you can’t jump over. That’s bad. Many people fall for the marketing hype here - and fuel companies are very good at pumping up the tyres of their premium gasolines. It’s unprincipled. Most cars don’t benefit from premium. If you drive a car like a BMW M3 that requires 98 high octane fuel, that’s what you need. But if you drive a Toyota Corolla that Toyota says is happy to sip regular 91, all day long, the expensive stuff is not going to help. It really is that simple. Crack open the owner’s manual, or go online, and see what the manufacturer recommends as the minimum octane required for your car. And then just tip that in until the day it dies. And buy the kids better presents at Christmas with the money you save. It’s really easy to save money here, and there’s no tradeoff. This is one of the few cases in life where the minimum required is not merely adequate, but also excellent. Don’t buy premium gas if you don’t need it.
After years of oil confusion and misinformation, I went straight to the source to ask an oil chemist a few questions to shed some light on this technical and heavily marketed industry. Hope this helps! -L AMMO Paint Regimen: http://www.ammonyc.com/shop/ammo-paint-regimen-kit/ AMMO Interior Regimen: http://www.ammonyc.com/shop/ammo-interiorregimen-kit/ AMMO Wheel Regimen: http://www.ammonyc.com/shop/ammo-wheel-regimen-kit/ For more how to car care videos & full product line: http://www.ammonyc.com Car Washing Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLABNq41vjJ6ObPDCI0jHcuj0McRNT38tb Paint Polishing Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLABNq41vjJ6PSStDl6rV-sVRRRMXvEPrO Drive Clean Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLABNq41vjJ6O5MaTyVE4VLqsxGDdaBwg- Subscribe to AMMO NYC for clean cars: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=AMMONYCdotcom Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/AMMOnyc/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ammonyc/ For more product info: http://www.ammonyc.com/ AMMO NYC Channel Home Page: https://www.youtube.com/user/AMMONYCdotcom If this video was helpful, please give us a THUMBS UP! Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, and Make Rain Productions, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, and Make Rain Productions assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, and Make Rain Productions recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, and Make Rain Productions, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, nor Make Rain Productions.
Diesel versus petrol. Which fuel is right for you? Don’t get this horribly wrong, because that’s going to cost you thousands. http://autoexpert.com.au/buying-a-car/diesel-australia-the-diesel-vs-petrol-story Diesel has so much going for it - it’s become incredibly popular. In the past 10 years, here in Australia, diesel sales have gone ballistic. Diesel SUVs - a four-fold sales increase in a decade. Diesel utes and light commercials - up more than double. Businesses, governments and private punters are equally enamoured of diesel. For the record, I’m neither for nor against diesel. I’m certainly not some diesel evangelist, but nor do I hate it. Diesel is simply the right choice for some car buyers and it’s wrong for others. There’s overlap in the middle, too. Meaning there’s a group of car buyers - of which you might be one - who could swing either way, happily. Let’s take the plunge. Carmakers really don’t want you to dwell on what’s happening ‘down there’ under the hood. Just buy the damn car, would you? They’re really not in the ‘advice’ business. But diesel really is different down there. Here’s what you need to know: Diesel powertrains cost more up front - around $2500 more for, just for the engine, in mainstream vehicles. And it delivers better fuel economy. If we do a typical apples-for-apples comparison here, you can buy a Hyundai Tucson Active in petrol or diesel. They’re both 2.0-litre engines. The petrol drinks 23 per cent more fuel during the combined cycle lab test. That’s pretty typical. The extra cost of the diesel is absolutely justified - the diesel engine is turbocharged, it has an extremely high-pressure fuel rail and a bunch of other hi-tech hardware - compared with the parts list for the typical alternative lo-tech petrol alternative - which is an atmo, multi-point injected dunger designed about 12 years ago. There are many exceptions. Like the Mazda CX-9 2.5 turbocharged direct injection engine - that’s an outstanding hi-tech petrol engine. The diesel engine makes more torque - and therefore requires a beefier driveline in order to cope. Sometimes the petrol comes in 2WD, while the diesel is exclusively AWD - which also ramps up the cost. Diesel is more fuel efficient - generally - for a few reasons. Mainly because the combustion process is more efficient. Reason being: diesel tolerates greater compression inside the engine. That allows it to expand over a greater range, and that gives you more efficiency. And, although the energy density of the fuels - per kilo - is about the same, diesel is a little denser than gasoline, so there’s a bit more energy in every litre of diesel. The upshot is that if you can drive around 800 kilometres on a tank of petrol you’ll achieve more like 1000 kilometres on a tank of diesel - ballpark estimate. And that means, A) incremental savings over time, B) fewer overall refuelling stops, and C) you’ll enjoy more cruising range if you visit remote areas. In those situations, when it’s a long way between refuelling stations, diesel can be a real plus.
One of the most glaring examples of this carmaker agenda self-serving design is the auto engine shutdown and restart system.
You drive along. Stop at a red light. The engine automatically shuts down. Light goes green, you start lifting off the brake, and the engine kicks back into life, as if by magic. We’re talking about that.
Systems like Mazda’s iStop - and seemingly 100 other proprietary names for similar bullshit technology. I get questions about this all the time.
So here it is: The truth about bullshit auto engine shutdown and restart systems.
Number one with a bullet: they save you bugger-all fuel. Claims that you will save any appreciable money are unmitigated bullshit. You can idle your engine all day long, and it’s still not going to cost you as much as a burger and fries. Engines just don’t consume much fuel at idle - they’re really only driving the ancillaries, overcoming their own internal friction and a bit of drag in the torque converter (if they’re driving an automatic).
The real reason these automated systems exist in many new cars is so the carmaker can legally ‘game’ the official fuel consumption tests. We’ve discussed these tests before. They’re lab tests from which the official fuel figures are derived - and these numbers are very important to carmakers, because consumption is increasingly important to buyers.
Unfortunately the tests are not very representative of actual driving. They’re just not - the official test numbers are always better than you can achieve out there, on the road, and that leads to a lot of customer dissatisfaction. Unfortunately.
The most non-representative aspect of the tests is the amount of time the cars spend stopped in both the city and highway tests. Those valleys there? The car is stopped. Together, both tests take 20 minutes - and around one-third of that time is spent stopped. In the city cycle test - it’s almost half the total time stopped.
So if you’re a carmaker, and you’re in this intense competition with all other carmakers, and you include the engine shutdown feature in the car, almost half of the official city cycle test is spent with the engine shut down. You’ll make incremental gains over a competitor without that system in his car. So, congratulations - you just gamed the system, and there’s nothing illegal about it.
But what this means for you, the car owner is: you have to wear it. And it’s unpleasant - especially on restart. Especially in a diesel, which has to battle a lot of compression when it restarts. And especially if your car has a CVT transmission. They tend to have pretty aggressive torque converters. So the restart is unrefined, at best. It’s awful.