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http://www.TrustMyMechanic.com "Why is my car engine over heating? What causes an engine to overheat" I hear this question all the time on my websites and especially during the hotter summer months. I made this short video to help you determine what might be the cause of your overheating problem and what you can rule out as not causing the issue before you go to your mechanic. This can save you some time, frustration and money by doing so. "My engine overheats at freeway speeds" When you are on the freeway you have lots of airflow across the radiator which helps remove the heat that the engine antifreeze/coolant has accumulated from the cooling system. Since the engine is running at a much higher RPM than that at idle, the water pump is spinning around and pumping coolant at a much higher rate as well. If there is a restriction in the radiator, the coolant will not be allowed to circulate fast enough inside the engine. The coolant will basically be roadblocked inside the radiator due to the restriction. A radiator usually gets build up of rust, minerals and calcium type deposits at the BOTTOM of the radiator. This restriction really can not be removed by "flushing" with a garden hose. In most cases this restriction will require a new radiator. Think of this type of engine overheating problem like this. You are trying to run a 10 mile marathon, but you have to do it with your mouth taped shut. You can walk with your mouth shut but running at full steam for a long distance requires more air than your nose can provide. A restricted radiator is the biggest culprit in an engine overheating complaint on the freeway or at higher speeds. Although, if the radiator is low on coolant....that can also be the problem, so check coolant level first. "I am constantly having to add coolant to my radiator, do I have a leak?" Anytime I hear of a coolant leak or engine overheating complaint I ALWAYS start my diagnosis with a cooling system pressure test. "My auto mechanic said I have a head gasket leak in my car" I get tons, literally tons of emails each week with this question. I would say that most of them are NOT having a headgasket problem but rather a lazy auto mechanic problem who failed to do a proper cooling system pressure test. Here are a few common symptoms I would expect to see if you had a blown headgasket or any other internal coolant leak. 1. Constantly having to add coolant to the radiator, with no visible external leaks found 2. White steam/smoke coming out the tailpipe, and worse or more smoke at freeway speed 3. Failing a cooling system pressure test, meaning the air pressure gauge drops but there are no external leaks to be seen. 4. An engine miss fire, due to coolant leaking inside the cylinders and fouling out the spark plugs. Lack of overall engine power and performance. 5. Usually a yellow check engine light will be on the dash, since the computer sees the engine miss fire and stores that code inside the computer memory. 6. Lack of engine compression. A manual compression test should be done on each cylinder to prove that there is a compression problem with 1 or more cylinder. This is different from the PRESSURE test which I mentioned above. 7. White powdery residue on the inside tip of the spark plug. When coolant enters the cylinder on the inside of the engine (which It should not be doing) the engine is going to try and burn that coolant, which it will have a very hard time doing. This coolant is what causes the engine to miss fire and produce the steam white smoke out the tailpipe. A white powdery residue will some times form on the internal engine tip of the spark plug. If you have any of those symptoms AND you have rule out all other possible issues then you might want to consider trying this very simple and effective head gasket sealer you can do yourself. I have had great success with it over the years. It's a sealer additive made by K&W, called Engine Block Sealer, but don't use it as the can direction say. I think my way of using it works much better and its much easier. http://www.myhonestmechanic.com/articles/engine-block-sealer-additive.shtml Do NOT use a radiator stop leak additive! check out my sites for more free information http://www.myhonestmechanic.com http://www.trustmymechanic.com/forum (ask your questions for free on my forum board)
SAVE MONEY and buy Motor Oils and Car Parts online - FREE SHIPPING!!! RECOMMENDED BY THE PEOPLES GARAGE http://amzn.to/1ck3B2w What to check when P0128 Code comes on
this is video on how to bleed the coolant system on a general motors 3.1 liter and 3.4 liter v6 commonly used . if you do not bleed the coolant system after doing lower intake gaskets,water pump,coolant hose or many other things that expose the coolant system to air will cause a overheat condition.
Most technicians understand the concept of fuel correction and what we mean by “closed loop” operation but just in case… Fuel control is the concept of maintaining the proper mixture of fuel and air in the cylinder for efficient combustion. Incoming air is measured (directly or indirectly) by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and then the ECM chooses how long to open the injectors in order to add the proper amount of fuel to that air charge. The original injection time is based (in part) on the known flow of fuel through the injector but that original number is not perfect. So a feedback sensor is used to tell the ECM how it did. These are the conventional oxygen sensor or the wideband oxygen sensor. Based on this feedback, the ECM adjusts the next injection event by increasing or decreasing the injector on time as appropriate. This process is continuous and results in the Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) numbers you see on your scan tool. Ideally, the ECM will adjust the on time to cause the STFT to swing from a positive number to a negative number with each adjustment, with an average approaching zero. If the adjustments the ECM has made are insufficient to do that, the ECM “learns” a more permanent correction called Long Term Fuel Trim and adds that factor to its internal calculations. If the total amount of correction (STFT + LTFT) exceeds a programmed threshold, the ECM will record a “system lean” or “system rich” DTC and turn on the Check Engine light. But do you really understand the diagnostic advantages these Parameter Identifiers (PIDs) have to offer? To the knowing eye, the trims can point to the cause of that lean or rich system DTC. They can also be helpful in determining the cause of a misfire, or even identify a clogged exhaust. Watch this month’s edition of The Trainer to learn more! Are you a professional technician or shop owner? Then sign up NOW for NO COST training at NACE Automechanika! Full details at: http://www.motorage.com/register17. BE SURE TO USE CODE "PMYT2017"! Be sure and SUBSCRIBE to our channel so you'll be the first to know when new information is available! @@@ FOLLOW US ON @@@ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MotorAgeMagazine/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/Motor_Age Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/motor_age VISIT OUR WEBSITE! http://www.motorage.com TRAINING FOR PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS! Motor Age Training: http://www.passthease.com NACE Automechanika 2017: http://www.searchautoparts.com/automechanika-chicago Click this link to subscribe to the print or digital edition of Motor Age! http://bit.ly/MotorAge_freesub_YT @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Due to factors beyond the control of Motor Age, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Motor Age magazine (UBM Americas - Automotive Group) assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Motor Age recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Motor Age, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Motor Age magazine or its corporate parent, UBM Americas.
Checking coolant level, verifying operation of the engine thermostat, verifying the fan is operating, and the control circuit for the fan
Here is a quick and easy way to check temperature sensor. I could have done a lot of other checks, but i'll do them later if the sensor doesn't fix the problem. As far as sensor being bad, there is no doubt.